The straight hem that is turned in and hemmed, or felled; the tailored hem that is turned up, with a bind stitched to the right side of the edge, and then the other edge felled or invisibly hemmed to the material. This is suitable when the material is too thick to turn in.
To roll hem for frills, or flared (circular cut) pieces of material. Fold back the edge of the material to the right side, after turning in the extreme edge one-eighth of an inch and pressing or tacking it to keep in place, but take care not to stretch the edge when pressing. Stitch just below the folded edge all round, then fold the turning over to the wrong side, and fell the tacked or pressed edge down to the row of stitching, without showing any stitches on the right side . Any fullness can easily be dispensed with by holding it in with the needle when making the final row of stitehea,
A piped hem
When there is insufficient material to allow for sufficient turnings to make a rolled hem, the edge can be neatly finished with piping. Cut cross way strips of material – three times the width of the piping required – fold it lengthways, ater joining ail the strips together and pressing open the little seams, and crease the centre line. Turn one edge inside one-eighth of an inch, then stitch the other edge even with that of the material to be piped. Place the piping on the right aide to do this, then turn it flat, and finish off the inside by felling down the turned-in edge. If the stitches are taken through those made when securing the piping, none will show on the right side.
For some purposes a raised or corded edge is desirable. Blake crossway strips, join them, press the seams, but do not crease at the centre line; instead, turn the edge over just far enough to cover a piece of piping cord, or thick wool, and secure it by slip-stitching or lightly tacking just below, at the same time turn up the other edge of the piping and catch under the cord.
A false hem can be mado either cut to shape, or with crossway strips of material. If the hem is to be cut to shape, allow for turnings at both edges, also for making joins. It is wiser to err on the side of too much material for turnings than to cut exactly to fit. Stitch edge to edge on the right side, then turn to the wrong side and invisibly hem the turned-in edge of the hem.
Remember when hemming invisibly to use the finest needle that will take the finest cotton suitable for the work. Pick up two or three threads and slip the needle inside the edge of the hem for a quarter of an inch before taking up the next threads. From the right side scarcely any sign of stitches will be seen, nor can they be distinguished on the wrong side.
Cutting crossway strips
To get the exact crossway of a piece of material, fold the width way – cut edge – against the selvedge or lengthway edge, and cut along the fold. Turn the material over in a straight line with this edge, and cut in this way to make as many strips as are necessary.
Crossway strips are also used for making scalloped hems, or facing up scallops which are made in material that is too flimsy to bind with a narrower crossway strip.
Tack the straight strip, or pin it to the right side of the material, and mark the wrong side with a pencil to guide the stitching when forming the scallops. A cardboard gauge can be used if preferred. Cut the size of scallop in cardboard, making about three scallops in a row, and use this to guide the needle. When the outline of the scallops is finished, cut the materials within one-eighth of an inch from the stitclnng, and at the extreme point be-tween each scallop mako a tiny snip in the edge, but do not cut the stitching. Turn the facing over to the wrong side, .shape the edgo of the scallops to make them all level, and press, then turn in the edgo and slip-stitch it along invisibly to the material.