Light-weight pressed steel sinks tend to move slightly as you lean against them doing the washing up. In time, this movement can weaken any seals between the sink and the adjoining work surfaces or the wall behind. So Sealing Around A Sink is a useful thing to be able to do.
If this happens, any splashes will find their way down these joints — so you should reseal them. The best thing to use is a silicone sealant which is flexible and will give a little as the sink moves. It comes in a range of colours, so it can usually be applied fairly unobtrusively.
To seal between the sink and the wall, cut the nozzle end to provide the right size bead for the gaps to be filled.
1.Start at one end, and squeeze the tube or turn the key provided to ease the sealant out of the nozzle. Push the bead in front of the nozzle, rather than pulling it along behind and don’t touch the sealant once it’s been applied.
Sealing the joints between the sink and the adjoining work surfaces is a little more difficult. If you run sealant along this joint it looks untidy, and may soon wear away.
The best way to make a perfect seal is to remove the work surface along the sink, apply a mastic sealant along the end of the sink, then bed the work surface against it.
2.Worktops are usually attached to the floor cabinets by metal angle brackets. To free them, undo the fixing screws.
3.Apply the sealant, and refix the worktops to the brackets.
4.Inset sinks are held in place by clamps under the worktop. You should be able to unscrew these clamps and ease the sink up enough to squeeze some mastic sealant under the rim without touching the plumbing.
Once you’ve applied sealant all around the rim, tighten up the clamps and wipe off any that squeezes out.