Retaining walls

Stepped concrete forms a series of low terraces; these are less likely to lean or to topple down-hill than is one high wall.

Cast concrete posts can be anchored with keyed posts run back into bank or with rods embedded in mass of concrete.

Poured concrete walls should have ex-tending foot on the downhill side, with reinforcement rods curved into the foot.

Concrete blocks are offset and reinforced with vertical steel rods. Use grout to fill in the holes surrounding the rods.

Redwood or cedar is naturally resistant to rot, insect attacks. Wall of 4 by 4’s and planks should have each post braced.

Planks and concrete posts make a strong wall. Post grooves hold ends of treated redwood planks which are slid into place.

Mortared bricks are set on solid footing, and staggered gradually inward with each course. Leave weep holes every 5 feet.

Dry wall of stone holds low banks suc-cessfully; can be laid with earth pockets in between. Pitch wall in toward the bank.

Cut stones are laid in mortar to provide added strength. Use an angle jig of boards to batter the face of the wall.

Railroad ties are set back slightly in a stair-step fashion for greater strength. At the ends the ties are pinned together with reinforcing rods. Space between the ties is blocked with rocks.

Entire slope of steep garden is terraced with 2 by 8’s, serving both as step risers and as low retaining walls. Stakes supporting risers are spaced every 12 inches; concrete used for treads.

Cedar strips covering concrete wall are nailed to the furring strips which have been fastened to the wall with concrete nails; the strips can be stained or left to weather naturally.

Redwood planks and posts form a retaining wall four feet high. 2 by 12’s are used for capping and to form edging below for herb garden. Gravel, drain tile are placed at wall base behind.