Increasing Cupboard Space In Bathrooms

In the larger type of bathroom you may wish to fit cupboards along the whole length of the wall on both sides of the washbasin so that the tops can be used for cosmetics.

Construction is exactly the same as for the kitchen cupboard fitting and work top. Take the precaution of seeing that any space between the fitting and wall is well sealed to prevent condensation from running behind. Sealing can be carried out by pinning on quadrant moulding, the back edge of which (part joining the wall) has been buttered with a mastic compound; or a plastic sealing stripmay be used.

There will be no room for such a fitting in a small bathroom; all that can be done is to utilize the space, if there is any, between the end of the bath and the wall, and also under the washbasin. The former is easily done by extending the framework of the bath panelling and fitting a door. The top may be of chipboard covered with laminated plastic or vinyl sheeting.

A cupboard under the washbasin is feasible only if the basin is attached to the wall by brackets. Obviously, where there is a pedestal basin, adding a cupboard would merely amount to boxing in the pedestal.

A fitting more elegant for a bathroom than the vertical front with recessed plinth, is one that slopes backwards and downwards towards the wall. This will allow the foot to come forward when you are washing without its kicking against the paintwork.

bathroom cupboard

A frame of 32 x 19 mm softwood is fixed under the basin and within the confines of the basin brackets in a way similar to that of the kitchen unit. That is to say, (a) is nailed on to the end of (b) and screwed to plugs set into the wall. After checking that (b) is at right angles to the wall, screw through its centre to the floor. Screw one end of (c) on to the free end of (b) and half-lap (d) and (e) temporarily to (a). Stop half-lap (d) and (e) on to (c) permanently.

Nail through (c) into the ends of floor plate (f) and rail (g). Screw through the centre of (f) into the floor.

Make a door (h) to hinge on to the floor plate (0. If it does not close properly, or shows a gap at one corner, adjust joins (da) and (ea) and then screw up permanently.

Cover sides (abcd) and up to the bottom of the basin with 3.2 mm (I in) standard hardboard which, apart from forming a sheathing to the frame, will give it stability. Further stability is afforded by a hardboard shelf (i). This is pinned on to (g) and the front part of (d), and extends back until it reaches the bottom of the basin. Fit the back of this shelf with a strip of wood or quadrant moulding (j) to prevent articles from dropping off behind.

The sloping front suggests complicated joinery; but this is not so if you cut the hardboard sides first — by measuring, and by trial and error — so that they slide comfortably under the basin but do not actually touch it, a slight tolerance being necessary to allow for possible expansion. When the sides are cut remove them and use as a template for cutting the frame members to the correct length and angle. Then assemble the frame and finally pin on the hardboard.