Boring Holes for Screws

Driving screws is made much easier by preparing the way for them with a bradawl, gimlet, or drill. In all cases a starting hole should be made, to allow the screw to get a good grip, which will enable it to penetrate soft wood on its own account.

Where one piece of wood has to be held to another, the held part should be bored right through, the hole – in hard wood at least – being as large as the unthreaded part of the neck. And in hard woods, again, a smaller hole should be drilled to the full depth of the screw into the holding part.

A drill, not a gimlet, should be used for boiTiig holes for large screws near edges, where a gimlet is likely to cause splitting.

Room for the conical head of a screw is made with a little tool called a countersink, sold for the purpose and used in a brace or drill-stock. To give a neat appearance, the nick must not go deep enough to allow the head to sink below the surface; unless it is desired to putty the head over, in which case a deep nick is needed.

Driving Scretvs

Keep a tin of vaseline handy, and dip the points of large screws in it before driving. They will then enter more easily, and will come out again easily at any future time, as the grease will prevent rusting.

If a screw enters unwillingly, dont force it, lest the slot should be cut. Extract it and deepen the hole.

Keep the shank of the driver in line with the screw. If it tilts, the tip will probably slip and damage the slot.

Where a number of screws have been driven – into a chest lid, for instance – go round them a second time to take up any slack caused by the wood, having been compressed.

If it is difficult to get parts to meet, give the held part smart blows with a mallet-while using the driver.

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