BOARDS give a hauling loop a yard or so long. The cord is tlien cut off and its other end knotted.

If the break is on the loft side, the same procedure is followed in the opposite direction. The cord being in position, the blind is hauled up, and the hauling loop knotted near the top.

Re-laddering. If a ladder breaks at any point, it is not worth while to attempt sewing it up, as rupture is generally due to old age. Both ladders should be renewed. Let the blind down full, cut the knots at the ends of the cord, and pull the cord out. The thin slats can now be drawn out of the ladders. The top lath is next released from the window-frame, and the tapes are detached from the tilting and bottom laths and used as patterns when purchasing new ladders – which must have cross tapes of exactly the same spacing if the blind is to be of the original length when all the slats are used.

The ends of the new ladders having been attached to the laths, the cord is replaced on its pulleys and its ends temporarily knotted below the top fixed lath, which is then put back in place. The slats are introduced into the ladders, and the cords run down through them and knotted at the ends.

Cleaning and repairing laths. – When a blind is re-laddered, the pulleys should be oiled, and the short tapes which run from the tilting lath over rollers in the top lath be renewed if they appear at all worn or perished, since they have to carry the whole weight of the blind.

Then, too, is the time to give the slats a scrubbing, and, if they need it, a coating of the paint-varnish sold specially for the purpose. It is best to get rid of old paint by the use of a paint-remover, and to glass-paper the slats, or at least to smooth down the old paint, before repainting.

Boards. Leaving boards with plain, square edges out of consideration, those most commonly used are known generally as matchboarding. A board of this class has a tongue formed on one edge and a groove cut in the other. The tongue and groove respectively fit into the groove of a similar board on one side, and receive the tongue of a board on the other side.

If the boards are set up close to one another, it is impossible for them to shrink sufficiently for the tongues to leave the grooves, so that the passage of air, dust, or dirt is prevented effectively. The interlocking also helps to keep the boards in the same plane when fixed.

All matchboards arranged horizontally and exposed to the weather must have their tongue edge upwards, so that there shall be no lodgment for water. It is obvious that, if the tongues pointed downward, every groove would become a receptacle for water.

Common weather-boarding or feather-edged boarding is much used, arranged horizontally, for covering the walls, and in some cases the roofs of cottages and outbuildings. Larch is the best material for this boarding, which, if kept well tarred, creosoted, or painted, will last for many years. Arranged vertically, it makes very good closed fencing.

For housework the rebated form is to be preferred on the score of neatness and ease of fixing, as it lies flat at the back, and one board need not be nailed through the other. Moreover, it requires less overlap, and therefore has greater covering value; and the joints fit more snugly, and so are more wind proof.

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