To make a Glass-holder
Cut thirteen stakes, 7 inches long, from No. 3 or No. 4 cane, two lengths of weaving cane No. 1, and one length of enamelled cane, which is flat, 20 inches long. One wooden base, 3 inches in diameter, and bored with 13 holes, will be required.
Water, then drained on a towel and the fine cane covered up until required. It is impossible to work cane properly when it is dry, but it must not be too wet.
To make a Foot Border. The- first stake is bent down in front of the second stake and the end slipped behind the next stake, resting against the base with its point towards the centre of the base. The second stake is bent down in front of the third stake, and disappears behind the fourth, and so on until the stakes are all used. The last stake, shown on the left, is bent down and passed under the first loop made, then the end passed behind the second stake. The foot border is then completed.
Stand the holder on the slanting board, with the high end towards the edge of the table in front of the worker, and pull the stakes forward a little as most glasses are shaped wider towards the top edge. Fix the base to the board with the bodkin or clips.
Take three lengths of No. I weaving cane, just long enough to circle the edge of the base with £ of an inch to spare, and place the end of each piece in between three consecutive stakes, as shown in Fig .4. Pass each cane in turn in front of two stakes, and behind the next, always working with the cane that lies at the left hand of the other two canes. When one row is completed finish this upsetting; by securing the ends in the way already suggested.
Start the weaving at the side of the liolder, and if it is kept on the slanting board this will be much easier to do. Use one piece of No.
Continue this randing for 22 rows, or if the length of cane happens to be finished just before this row is reached, take the flat enamelled cane and make the border. There will be enough in the length to make a double row of the coloured cane. Insert the end where the round cane came out, so that the stake next to it will hold the flat cane in place, and finish off the end as invisibly as possible.
Pick up the round cane again, slip the end under that of the flat cane, and continue randing for another four rows. Make a top row to secure the randing with pairing.
By this time the upright stakes will be quite dry and must be damped again before they can be shaved to a point and formed into a looped border.