These partitions are generally employed where the wall is not load-bearing or where it is important to make the wall as light as possible.
Materials: 2 in. by 3 in. (5 by 7.5 cm) or 2 in. by 2 in. (5 by 5 cm) softwood rough sawn: I in. (1 -2 cm) wallboard and 2 in. (5 cm) wide wallboard tape. Skirting boards, door linings and architraves are needed to finish off.
One room into two. To divide one room into two using a stud partition: 1 Mark out on the floor with a straight edge the line of the proposed partition.
2 If a door is to be fitted, mark its position. Allow for the width of the door, say 2 ft 6 in. (or 76 cm) plus 4 mm clearance, and for the width of the door linings on either side of the opening — say about 1 in. (2.5 cm) for each — making a total overall opening of 2 ft 81 in. (82.5 cm).
3 Mark the line of the door position both on the floor and on the ceiling, transferring this by using a plum bob or a builder’s spirit level.
4 Fix a sill piece into position on the floor with nails or screws — preferably by nailing through the floor boards to floor joists. This can be done if the joists run in the opposite direction to the new partition.
5 Leave out a section for the door opening.
6 Repeat the procedure for the headpiece.
This is fixed to the ceiling by nailing or screwing into a ceiling joist. If the joists run in the same direction as the new partition, insert nogging pieces between the joists at 2 ft (or 60 cm) centres. This can be done by lifting floorings in the room above or in the roof space. The flogging pieces may be of the same cross-sectional size as the stud-work. If the floor or ceiling consists of concrete, it would have to be drilled, plugged and screwed.
7 Fix the two outer studs to the wall at each end, either drilling, plugging and screwing or using 4 in. (or 10 cm) cut nails driven through the stud into the mortar joint of brickwork or directly into block walls.
8 Position the next studs on either side of the door opening and then infill the remaining areas with studs at 1 ft 6 in. (or 46 cm) centres where possible. These are skew-nailed (nails driven in at an angle) to the head and sill pieces. Make sure the nails are driven well home and that the heads do not stick out.
9 Nail the door head member in position, leaving an adequate opening for the door lining. Nail central horizontal studs into position, set staggered for easy fixing.
10 With the studwork completed, put up the 3 in. (1.2 cm) wallboard, using 1 in. (3 cm) galvanized nails. Nail securely to the studwork at 6 in. (or 15 cm) centres.
11 Nail the door linings into place. Cut these to the size of the studwork plus 1 in. (2.5 cm) to cover the ends of the wallboard.
12 Fix the moulded or chamfered door architraves, the door stop and the floor skirting board.
13 Knot, prime, stop and paint all exposed timber.
14 Tape the joints in the wallboard. Use a lining paper first, as taped joints have a tendency to show. If a skim coat of plaster is preferred to wallpaper where, for example, the wall is to be painted, the taped joints have to be replaced with 3 in. (or 7-5 cm) jute scrim and the final plaster skim applied.