November 6, 2011 at 2:46 pm
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Nothing is so essential to the making of a garden, as a lawn. True, there are gardens of the old cottage type which are without grass, and are merely a series of flower borders connected by flagstones, cobble, or gravel paths, but these are only successful in rural districts, where the surrounding meadows create the green frame to the picture. It is certain that every suburban or town garden is improved by the making of a lawn, even if it has to be restricted to the area of a few square yards.
Lawns are best made from seed, and seed sowing should take place in September or in April, the reason being that in these months the soil is warm, and showers may be expected. Warmth and moisture are needed for the speedy germination of all seed, and unless grass seed germinates quickly, it is likely to fall a prey to the birds or to decay. Actually any time during the summer would do for seed sowing if water could be given and some shelter from the scorching sunshine could be afforded.
Lawn construction. The process of lawn making is very simple and can easily be undertaken by the amateur. The first step is to level the site. If this is roughly level to begin with, there is no need to do more than dig over the surface. Where ground slopes, and a level horizontal lawn is required, soil must be excavated from the higher part and taken to the lower end.
The top six inches of soil, which is usually darker in colour and more fertile than the subsoil, must alwajs be kept at the top. The best plan on a steep slope therefore, is to remove the top layer of soil first and pile it in a heap. Then level the site and put in extra drains where they are needed.
It may be noted here that the wettest part of a lawn so made will be where most excavation has been done, and nearly always an extra drain – if only a layer of bricks or clinker twelve inches or so below the surface – is desirable at this part. When replacing soil over such a drain, be sure it is of a porous nature, not sticky clay, so that water can actually find ifc3 way clown to the rough material.
Surface preparation. After the site is level and drained, replace the surface soil roughly. When seed-sowing time comes, rako the surface to a fine tilth, taking care to make it quite level and firm. If several weeks, preferably weeks of changing weather, elapse between the digging and seed sowing, it will be easier to obtain a good surface for the seed. Large weeds and stones must be removed, particularly those weeds that would grow again, such as docks and dandelions.
Easy sowing. One ounce of seed for each square yard is sufficient in open districts, but double this quantity will make a lawn more quickly, and is advisable in town gardens or other difficult places.
To sow this broadcast over the surface, divide the area into squares, and seed into an equal number of portions before you begin. Use a board to stand on, so that your feet do not sink into the soil, and as you sow each section rake it lightly and scatter a little fine soil over to cover the seed. Press this firm, either with the. Board, the back of the spade or a. light roller. Nothing more is necessary until the grass appears, when it can again be beaten flat, or rolled with a light roller, to make it thicken.
Lawns from turf. It is not often that the amateur is able to obtain turf in sufficiently good condition to use for lawns. Really good quality turf is expensive, so much so in fact, that it is hardly justifiable to use it in most case3. Second-rate turf should on no account be used.
There is only one justification for the use of turf even of the finest quality, that is that it makes a lawn more quickly than one sown from seed. In the case of a lawn to be used for games, speed may be all-important; but where an ordinary garden lawn is to be made, seed sowing is the better method. However, where it is decided to use turf, and the lawn is not large enough to warrant the employment of an expert on the job, the method to be adopted is as follows:
First level the soil in the same way as for seed sowing, except that it is not very material whether the fertile soil is at the top. Then add an inch-thick layer of finely-sifted ashes, raking this perfectly level before the turves are set in position. If the turf has been properly cut it will be of an even thicknecs, and laying is then a simple matter.
A supply of fine soil should be kept at hand in order to fill up any cracks that occur, and after the turves are laid and beaten flat, any small hollows should be filled with the soil, with the addition of a little new grass seed.
If some soil and seed mixed are then brushed into the surface, and well rolled and watered, the turf will quickly become established.
Cut and roll. The difference between the good lawn and the coarse weedy patch is chiefly one of general upkeep. To cut and to roll regularly are the most important items, and on no account should grass ever be allowed to grow more than an inch or two in height. That is why the mower, which at one time was put away for the winter months, is now used all the year round. If grass becomes long it deteriorates, coarser grasses develop and crowd out the finer ones, and the lawn loses its soft, velvety, matted texture.
Modern mowing machines make the work of cutting grass an easy task. Even the small hand machine is no trouble to use on a lawn that is cut daily, always supposing the machine is kept clean and properly oiled.
Use the mower in a different direction each day, north and south one day, east and west the next. This makes a perfect finish.
It is advisable to use the roller in a different direction too, in order to keep a perfectly level surface. And, before leaving the subject of rolling) it may be well to remind amateurs that there are times when the roller should not be used.
One is when the grass is covered with white frost. Another is when the soil is dry and caked. But another, which amateurs often forget, is when the soil is sodden or half flooded with heavy rains. Rolling while it is in this condition causes it to cake, and the grass becomes unhealthy through lack of air in the soil.
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