Sash Cords, Replacing. The replacement of broken or worn sash cords is not so difficult a business as it may appear to anyone who has not tried his hand at it.
The beginner is advised, however, to make his first essay on a window with sashes of moderato weight and easily handled. Large sashes with heavy glass will require the assistance of at least one extra pair of hands.
Before embarking on a replacement, the worker must provide himself with a supply of new sash cord, which should be well stretched before use; some circular wedges – the tips of round-handled paste brushes do quite well – to drive in between cords and pulleys; and a mouse, to lead a string over a pulley. The last is quickly made by wrapping some lead foil, such as tobacco is wrapped in, round the end of two or three yards of twine, and binding it with strong thread. It must not exceed inch or so in diameter.
On the principle that the greater includes the less, we will assume that a cord on the outer sash has broken. If examination shows that the companion cord is probably of equal age, both the cords should be replaced, since getting out an outside sash is more of a business than renewing the cords of an inner one.
The inner sash is held in position by three headings. The bottom one of these is not interfered with. The two side ones are prized away from the frame at the middle and bent until their ends are free. It is advisable to mark their ends before removal, so as to ensure that they should all be restored to their original positions. Pull the inner sash down and secure the cords by driving wedges between them and the pulleys.
The cord on one side, after the point where its end reaches to has been marked, is separated from the sash by levering the holding tacks out, and turned round and stood out of the way on a support, such as the backs of a couple of chairs, unless it is thought preferable to detach the other cord as well.
The next step is to remove the headings between the sashes. These fit into grooves in the framework and are easily shifted if not stuck by paint. The inner sash is then pulled down and the cords wedged for the sash to be moved outwards and marks to be made on it opposite the cord ends. The cords are then separated from the sash, unwedged, and allowed to run back gently and lower the weights.
The last are got at by removing pieces of wood, called the pockets, which are held in place by the central beading. They are levered out by their top ends. The weights can then be withdrawn. Note how the cords are attached to them. Two different methods are used, and that employed must be copied.
The mouse is now passed over one pulley and used to draw a string down. The end of this is made fast to the sash cord, which is drawn up and over the pulley, and the weight is put back in place. The sash is temporarily replaced and the weight is pulled up as far as it will go, wedged, and cut off opposite the mark on the sash.
The same procedure having been followed with the other cord, both cords can be nailed to the sashes with a couple of tacks each. Then the wedges are removed and the sash run up and down to make sure that tilings are all right. If the sash drops a little when pushed right up, the cords are too long, and must be shortened. On the other hand, an inner sash will refuse to close if the cords are too short.
But assuming that all is correct, nailing is completed, pockets and central headings are replaced, and the inner sash has its cord nailed on, and is put back into position. The replacement of the outside headings completes the job.
Where the cords of an inner sash only require renewing, the removal operations described end with the dotachment of the pockets or pocket, as the caso may be.
The renewal of sash cords gives a good opportunity for easing a sticky sash; or for replacing a cracked pane of glass, a job which, in the case of the sashes of an upper story window, can be done much more easily when the sash has been removed than when it is in place. Now also is the time for oiling pulleys, or renewing them, if badly worn.
Sawing-Horse, Making a. This useful accessory can be made quickly out of -four pieces of 3-inch by 2-inch wood, each 32 inches long, and as many pieces of 1-inch board, 6 inches wide.
The two ends are made first. Holes are bored 12 inches from what will be the upper ends of the legs, to take I -inch bolts. The bottom ends are sawn off at an angle of 60° from the outer faces. Two boards 24 inches long, with their ends accurately squared, are nailed to the outer legs at such a height as to allow the inner legs to open until they make an angle of 60D with the outer. The inner legs are connected by boards 20 inches long.
If the construction be carried out carefully, so that the parts are quite square and parallel, the horse can be closed up after loosening the nuts, for storing away.