Reflector For Cooking

This is a modification of the Dutch oven, which at one time was commonly used in front of kitchen ranges. It will be found very useful for heating up food, frying bacon, and roasting cutlets, steaks, or even small joints, in front of an open coal fire or gas fire, if stood on a support of suitable height close to it.

The use of it docs not necessarily involve the consumption of any extra fuel, as it merely traps heat which would otherwise be radiated direct into the room, and. Alter doing its work in the reflector, adds to the general warmth.

It consists of a hood, and a tray into which the hood fits loosely. The hood has an open front and a top whioh slopes downwards at an angle of about 45 degrees to join a vertical part at the back about 3 inches high.

The hood consists of three parts – two ends and the back. The material used throughout is stout tinned steel sheet, of high-quality finish.

These show that the edges of the tray and hood are strengthened by being turned round stout iron wire inch thick. Allowances for the turnovers round wires must be made at the front and bottom of the ends, the top and bottom of the back and the flanges of the tray; and as the back has to be riveted to the ends, & inch must be allowed for right-angle laps on the back where it touches the top and back of the ends.

The second form is neater, but somewhat more difficult to construct. As regards size, the following dimensions can be recommended:

Height at front 9 inches, height at back 3 inches, depth from front to back S inches, width 13 inches. A reflector built to this specification will hold an ordinary pie-dish or dinner plate easily. A knob or handle is needed at the back for lifting the hood. If a dropping loop handle is used, it should be attached at the balancing point.

At the centre, near the top, should be a hole, so that the reflector may be hung up face towards the wall. Holes may be made in the ends for a rod from which to hang meat for roasting.

The back and ends are riveted together with small copper rivets. A U-shaped loop of wire is then made to fit top and sides of the front. The laps for the wire, which should have been turned over partly before riveting, are beaten round the wire with a light hammer. The tray is wired in the same manner.

The inside of the hood should be kept clean, as its reflecting power will be reduced by dullness.

Corks

Odd corks of all sizes should not be thrown away, but kept in a box. Some of them at any rate will come in useful sooner or later.

Holes are made in corks most easily by burning them with a red-hot wire.

– Reflector for Coofiiag. (u) Side sectional view, (b) View from front or fire side. A – Hole In end for suspension bar.

B – Hole for hanging up the reflector.

Corks are not quite air-tight, but they can be made so by soaking them in hot paraffin wax.

A very sharp knife is needed for cutting cork.

Corks become compressed by frequent use, especially if wetted. An eye should be kept on the corks of thcrmo flasks lest they become too loose a fit.

New corks should be softened before use by soaking them in water.

A large flat cork, secured to the floor by a screw and washer, makes a good doorstop.

Corks are useful for cleaning metals, either dry or dipped in finely-powdered pumice.

To secure a cork so that it cannot work loose or be drawn out, make a round loop in a piece of string and draw one part of the string up through it in a U-loop. The round loop is passed round the neck of the bottle with the U-loop over the cork. The string is then pulled tight and the ends tied together on the cork, which is thus held down by four turns.

Corrugated Iron. This is the cheapest material for covering the roofs and sides of out-buildings. The corrugations give it great stiffness, and if well galvanized, as it should be, it will resist rust for many years.

The standard width of sheets is 26 inches. This gives an effective covering width of 2 foet and allows one corrugation for over-lapping a neighbouring sheet along one edge. Lengths run from 4 to 10 feet. Thickness is indicated by a Birmingham Wire Gauge number. The smaller the number, the thicker the material.

The gauges most used are 22, 24, and 26. A hundredweight of No. 22 sheets will cover 64 square feet, allowing 6 inches overlap at the ends of sheets; of Mo. 24, 77 square feet; of No. 26, 105 square feet.

Except where a roof is very exposed, a slope of as little as half an inch to the foot will suffice. New corrugated iron can be blackened by washing it with a solution of: water, 3 pints; hydrochloric acid, nitrate of copper, chloride of copper, and salam-moniac, one ounce each. It will then take paint readily, though if left untreated it affords a poor hold. (Old galvanized iron, however, does not need treatment.) Paint increases the life of a roof by delaying the separation of the protective zinc coating from the iron.

Since it transmits heat very freely, corrugated iron over enclosed places should be lined with boarding, felt preferably being interposed. This will prevent condensation in the inside, which, in certain states of the weather, causes a heavy drip.

Corrugated iron should be attached with galvanized screws, passed through the hills, and each having a washer under the head.

Both because this material is awkward to cut, and to avoid waste, a building which is to be covered with it should be dimensioned to suit standard lengths. For example, sides 61- feet Ingh would need 7-foot lengths cut down; whereas if they are 6 or 7 feet high no cutting would be ncedod. Similarly, the length of a side roof should be a multiple of the covering width of a sheet.

Cotton-Reel Magazine. The reols are threaded on bars, the ends of which rest in slots cut in pieces A, screwed to the inside of the ends of the box. When the lid is closed, pieces B, attached to the lid, prevent the bars coming out of the slots.

The number of reels that can be accom-modated depends on the internal length of the box; but is roughly three to every 11 inches. A box 9 inches long would therofore hold 18 reels.

Rows of conical holes are bored in the front of the box, one row for each tier of reels: and to the inside is stuck a piece of rubber it, through which each thread is passed with a needle, the object of the rubber being to prevent a thread-end slipping back into the box after a length has been cut off. Dots of paint on the rubber opposite the holes assist in threading a new reel.

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