Nails and Nailing

The wire nail is the most popular form of nail for general use. It has good holding-power and is easier to drive than nails with blunt ends. It can be bought in sizes ranging from 1-6 in. in length, and in various gauges or thicknesses. Its large head makes it difficult to punch in below the surface of the wood, and Avhere the head is to be out of sight or beyond the reach of the plane, the cut or stamped brad, with head projecting on one side only, is preferred – as for flooring or in joiners tvork.

There is, however, a variety of the wire nail, called the. Oval brad, which has a much smaller head than the ordinary kind, and can easily be punched home. For .small work, such as the construction of

Bmall boxes, use panel pins, which are thin wire nails with heads only slightly larger than the beads. Clout nails, with large flat circular heads, are useful for fixing felt, etc., to roofs, where a large holding-surface is needed to prevent the material tearing.

Nails have much smaller holding-power when driven in the direction of the grain than they have when driven across it. Therefore, when nailing along the grain, use nails which are long proportionately to their thickness.

Nails driven in at different angles hold much better than if all are driven at right-angles to the surface of the wood, since they have a dovetail effect, and what is a straight pull on some is a more or less side pull on others. Dovetail nailing is especially useful for nails driven in the direction of the grain .

Do not drive nails close together in the same lino , as to do so increases the risk of splitting the wood. Keep them in different lines as much as possible .

Especially in hard wood, make holes for nails near ends or edges with a bradawl or drill. This will prevent splitting. A bradawl should always have its point entered across the grain, so as to cuji the fibres and not wedge them apart, anl be twisted a little to right and left as it is forced into the wood. Twist drills are preferable for hard wood or large holes, as they remove material from the place where the nail will be, and never split the wood. The hole should, of course, be smaller than the nail, but if it is not too large it does not affect the holding-power.

Wedge-shaped nails should always be driven with their tapering faces in the direction of the grain, as otherwise they act as wedges and are likely to cause splitting.

When nails are being driven into partitions or other parts which have a spection, or at least will sit tight, if it is spring in them, a solid object, considerably done quietly and not too often.

– Dovetail Nailing.

Heavier than the hammer, should be held up against the wood on the further side, to render the blow dead. If this backing-up is omitted, driving will be more difficult and damage may be done.

Nails driven along the grain hold better if first dipped in a solution of sal ammoniac, which quickly causes the nail to rust.

To clinch, that is, turn over the end of, a nail so that it cannot be extracted, drive it right through and back-up the head with a heavy hammer while the end is bent over and forced into the wood with a lighter one.

For nailing sheet copper or lead use copper, not iron, nails. For zinc and galvanized iron use galvanized nails. Iron in contact with other metals corrodes quickly in the presenco of moisture.

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