Loganberry Cultivation

The loganberry is, perhaps, the supreme bramble type of berry, as it is ideal for stewing, jam and jelly-making, bottling, canning, juice extraction and wine-making. The berries can also be eaten as dessert when fully ripe, but may be too tart for some palates.

Origins

Opinions are divided as to whether the loganberry is a redfruiting form of the common Californian blackberry, Rubus ursinus vitifolius, or a seedling from a cross between the ‘Red Antwerp’ raspberry and the American blackberry ‘Aughin-burgh’. The plant appeared in 1881 in the garden ofJudge J. H. Logan of Santa Cruz, California, from whom it takes its name. It has been cultivated in England from 1897.

Growth

The loganberry produces vigorous, prickly canes carrying 3 to 5 lobed leaves. As flowering is late, the plants may be grown in low-lying situations – spring frosts rarely damage the blossom, though severe winters may affect the canes. Loganberries are self-compatible and yield heavy crops of blunt, firm, very juicy, deep red berries of a rich flavour, from August to September. The yield may be sustained for 15 years or more. The berries do not plug, so are picked complete with core. Picking is best done when the berries are quite dry.

Soil loganberry

Heavy, rather than chalky and light and dry, soils are preferred—chalky soils induce iron and manganese deficiencies. Well-drained loams and brick earths are ideal. Loganberries love rich soil and respond to generous manuring. Nitrogen is the most important plant food requirement. Mulch annually with farmyard manure in late autumn or feed with 2 ounces of fish manure and 1 ounce of sulphate of potash per square yard.

A sunny and open but sheltered site is best with protection from north-east winds. The rows should run north-south.

Propagation

Propagation is usually by tip-layering between June and mid-August. The tips of young canes are pegged down 2-3 inches deep (or weighted with a flat stone), into small pots filled with a rooting compost and sunk in the ground. The young plants are severed from the parent canes when well-rooted in the following February. Alternatively, leaf bud cuttings are rooted 2 inches apart in a bed of sandy soil in a closed and shaded garden frame in July or August. Each cutting consists of a leaf and bud with a 1-inch length of cane bark devoid of pith. Roots are produced in three to four weeks ; the young plants are hardened off a month later and transplanted the following spring.

Rooted tips or cuttings are planted 6-10 feet apart in February or March against fences, north or east walls, and up arches. Post and wire supports with wires at 2, 4 and 6 feet from soil level are used on open sites. Shorten the young plants to 9 inches after planting, to encourage the production of strong new shoots on which fruit will be borne the following year. To reduce disease infection from the older canes, the young canes are trained fan-wise on the opposite side from the old canes. The two ages of cane occupy alternate sides annually. Ten to 12 fruiting canes are retained per plant. Fruiting is on one-year-old canes which are cut down to ground level in October after fruit harvest.

Pests and diseases are the same as those which attack raspberries.

Two good varieties are the following : `LY 59′, which is a virus-free clone available since the late 1950s. It is free from the debilitating viruses which reduce the crop of infected loganberries. It is the heaviest cropper —it may yield 174 pounds of fruit per bush ; ‘American Thornless’, a prickle-free mutation found in 1933. It is a pleasure to prune it. Slightly less vigorous than the common loganberry, it is an ideal variety for the smaller garden and may yield up to 15 pounds of fruit per bush.

05. May 2011 by admin
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