IRONING

AN article nicely ironed is, in its way, an artistic triumph. Whether a flat iron, a gas iron, or an electric iron be used makes little or no difference to the appearance of the article, though . certainly docs to the comfort of the ironer. The size of the ironing-board must be determined by the space available. The kitchen table is a substitute, but unfortunately it is inconveniently low, and entails unnecessary stooping. The covering in this case should be a soft, coarse, woollen blanket, folded double and cut to fit the table exactly. To prevent slipping it is well to sew a piece of stout clastic at each angle to form a loop to slip over the corners of the table and hold it rigid. Another plan is to have the blanket of sufficient length to fold the ends under the table and secure them with drawing-pins. To be sure, this method makes holes in the woodwork, but as they are out of sight one may presume that they are also out of mind. Two or three covers of unbleached muslin should cover the blanket, and may be secured in the same way. Embroideries, Calicoes, and Chintzes

If working with a flat iron it is better to use a clean firebrick, or even an Ordinary brick, instead of the usual iron stand, as the former retains the heat much longer because it does not admit air, and brick is also a non-conductor of heat. If a couple of thicknesses of brown paper are put between the material used for the holder it will be found of considerable advantage.

Embroideries, calicoes, and chintzes should be ironed on the wrong side. To prevent silk from becoming shiny when ironing, lay a piece of butter-muslin over the fabric. Silk ribbon should have tissue pa per over it, the iron kept stationary, and the ribbon gradually drawn under it. Flannels and Woollens Xever use a very hot iron for flannels and woollens or articles of delicate colour. Should an article be scorched, lay it where the sunshine will fall directly upon it, and in most cases it will be found that the stain will be removed. When dealing with lace, each point should be caref ully pulled out, and the ironing done over a piece of soft muslin so that it does not come in contact with the material. Crochet, Irish and Greek lace, tatting, and guipure should not be ironed, but pinned point by point to the board and left till dry, when it can be pulled out with the fingers if too stiff. Curtains If a hole is discovered in a curtain, when ironing, take a piece of an old curtain a little larger than the hole, dip the edges in cold starch, place over the hole, and iron. If neatly done, the patch will be scarcely noticeable. The secret of success in dealing with table-linen is to iron single, beginning at a corner, first lengthways, then across, and keeping the linen square.

A little turpentine or borax mixed with the starch will prevent irons from sticking, but if this precaution is not taken and starch does cling to the iron, rub it with a piece of brown paper sprinkled with salt. To clean an iron, make it very hot and rub it with a piece of yellow soap

Clothes for ironing should be damped with hot water, which distributes more evenly than cold.

A sleeve board is necessary for ironing dresses, jumpers and blouses so as not to have an ugly crease down each side. Creases of this kind should also ba avoided on such garments as knickers, pyjamas, petticoats, etc. Some materials with a dull surface are best ironed on the wrong side. Avoid having the iron too hot, especially for silks, as they so easily scorch. Some materials will be found to iron better dry.

With articles such as handkerchiefs, tray cloths or anything with straight edges, attention should be paid to keeping the corners straight.

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