RESTICKING LIFTING LAMINATE
A kitchen worktop takes a lot of hard wear during its daily life.
If the original laminate has been laid on an improperly sealed worktop, or on a dirty surface, there is always a chance that the glue bond will fail and the laminate will lift.
Before you try to glue it back in position, you must clean any old glue off the back of the laminate and off the surface it is to be stuck on to. Scrape of what you can — if it is contact adhesive you can get a special solvent to deal with the rest.
1. Apply fresh contact adhesive to both cleaned surfaces with a spreader, using the thin blade to smear it into the gap. You will have to lift the laminate to do this, but take care not to bend it too much or it will crack.
2. Keep it propped up until the glue is touch dry. Then press the two surfaces together. They will immediately bond, so there is no need to clamp or weight the laminate on to the worktop.
When buying readymade kitchen worktops, you will find that some manufacturers supply a laminated upstand which comes attached to the back.
- To screw the upstand in position, drill holes at 450mm intervals and about 10mm in from the back of the worktop.
- Apply the sealant, then place the upstand in position.
- Insert the screws through the underside of the worktop into the holes already drilled.
- If the worktop does not have a readymade upstand, you can make one using wood moulding.
- Cut the moulding to size and drill holes on the face at 450mm intervals.
- Countersink the holes, then hold the moulding in place and mark the fixing positions on the wall with a nail or pencil.
- Remove the moulding, then prime and undercoat it.
- Drill holes in the wall, and insert wallplugs or cavity wall fixings as appropriate.
- Coat the base of the moulding with flexible sealant and screw into position.
- Fill the countersunk holes with wood filler, smooth down and apply a topcoat of gloss paint or polyurethane varnish.