Clocks

Pendulum clocks should be level in both directions, and more especially laterally. If the surface on which a clock stands is not level, the clock should be raised, by wedges or slips of cardboard, on the lower side, till the pendulum, when at rest, is parallel to the sides and back.

The sound of the tick is a good guide to proper levelling. The ticks should be perfectly even in strength and duration. If the clock goes tick-tocA-, tick-oc£, the pendulum is swinging too far in one direction, and not far enough in the other. A pendulum clock is regulated in most cases by means of a milled nut at the bottom of the shaft. Turning this in one direction raises the bob and makes the beats shorter in duration – and so speeds Up the clock – while lowering the bob, by tinning the nut in the other direction, slows the clock.

Some clocks have a gear at the top of the pendulum, which is turned by a key and lowers or raises the pendulum as a whole. The square for the key projects through the face over the XII. Regulation should be done by small stages, the clock being allowed to run for a day or two after each setting.

The hands of a non-striking clock can be turned backwards, like those of a watch, without deranging the mechanism in any way. But a striking clock must not be put back beyond a striking-point – hour, half-hour, or quarter-hour, as the case may be – as to do so would put the striking mechanism out of step with the time mechanism. Nor may it be put forward without being allowed to strike at each striking-point.

If a clock that strikes the hours only gets out of step, turn the minute hand to the hour, count the strokes, move the hour hand – which is usually loose on its spindle – to the hour struck, and then set the clock to the correct time, allowing it to strike at the hours.

If a half-hour striker takes to striking hours at half-hours, turn the minute hand past a striking point without allowing the clock to strike, and then adjust the hour hand as already described.

The works of a clock can be cleaned without being taken to pieces, by removing them from the case, standing them in a clean tray, and squirting them with petrol (not paraffin). Aviation petrol is best for the purpose. (The petrol, if filtered through cotton-wool, can be used again.) When the petrol on the works has evaporated, all spindle bearings should be lubricated with a little of the special oil used by watchmakers, applied with a sharp metal or wood point.

In winter, the thickening of oil by cold may render a clock sulky; and it is worth while trying the effect of warming the clock in front of a fire; assuming it to have n metal case which will not be damaged by heat.

Electric-Mains Cloclcs. – The standard-izing of the number of alternations per second of the current generated by the power stations of the country has brought into use a new type of electric clock, which, if connected with a lighting circuit of the house, will never need to be wound, and will keep perfect time indefinitely.

The hands are moved by a tiny electric motor which is so constructed that it is bound to keep running at a rate controlled at the power station, where a standard time dial is periodically adjusted by signals from Greenwich.

These clocks are sold at very moderate prices and, where a public electric supply is available, do away with the need for expensive self-contained clocks.

Clothes Driers. Two forms of easily-made rack for hoisting clothes and other articles to the kitchen ceiling. The first of these is really an H of li-in. X li-in. Wood, with two stout galvanized wire cables parallel to the long member. The wires may be replaced by -in. x li-in. Battens, on edge. For strength and appearance joints should be mortised and tenoned.

The combined guard and clothes-drier, is long and deep enough to go round an ordinary curb, and 30 in. high. The ends are hinged to the front and provided with hooks for engaging with eyes in the wall outside the fireplace. Sound 2-in. X -in. slating battens, planed and rubbed down with glass-paper, will serve as material. The joints may be halved, but tenons and mortises will give a stronger and stouter article. All comers should be rounded off.

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