Chrysanthemums in greenhouses

When chrysanthemums are grown for the greenhouse, they are started in exactly the same way as for outdoor culture. That is to say, cuttings are taken as soon as they are ready, which is some time in winter.

The young shoots are removed from the root stock and inserted in sandy soil, and as soon as they have rooted, they are potted on into small pots. As soon as roots fill the pots, the plants should be moved on into larger pots, using a compost of one part coarse sand, one part leaf-mould, four parts ordinary loam, and two parts old, decayed manure. A little old mortar rubble or lime should also be added and if wood ashes are available, these also can be used.

Pass the mixture through a £-in. mesh sieve using the coarse siftings for the bottom of the pots, and the finer soil on top. When the plants are finally potted into large flowering pots, a handful of bonemeal can be added to the compost.

Always pot the plants firmly, and keep them in a cold frame until somewhere about the second week in September. During the hot summer days, the lights can be removed from the frame, or if preferred, the pots can be stood in the open. After. September there is a danger of damage by frost if the plants are left out of the greenhouse. After this never let the temperature drop below 40°, and as far as possible keep it fairly even.

Stopping and disbudding must be practised as necessary if exhibition blooms are required. Full instructions are usual ly given by the growers in their catalogues, as each variety may need slightly different treatment.

It may be explained here for the benefit of amateurs that stopping means pinching out the tiniest possible portion of the leading shoot to encourage the growth of side shoots. Some varieties are best allowed to grow and flower on the middle stem, while others are better if allowed to form three or four side shoots.

Growers also talk of securing buds, which means that all the other buds are rubbed off, and only certain of the most promising ones allowed to remain. It may be the central bud which is left, and this is called the first crown bud. Sometimes this bud is pinched out and the surrounding buds are allowed to develop. These are called second crown buds.

Chrysanthemums are very subject to attacks of mildew, and for this reason should be given all the light and air possible. Some of the best varieties for cultivation in the amateurs greenhouse are as follows:

Friendly Rival. Deep yellow.

Balcombe Bronze. Bronze with gold-tipped petals.

Florence Bigland. Deep canary-yellow.

Gladys Pierson. Golden-buff.

Kenneth Bastie. Crimson-maroon.

Lyoness. Bronze-red.

Melrose. Silvery-pink.

Thanksgivmg Pink. Satin-pink.

Aurora. Orange-bronze.

Delicata. Pearly-pink.

E. Reeves. Golden-yellow, shaded amber.

Sungold. Gold, shaded chestnut.

Romance. Rich yellow.

Joan Higgs. Pure white.

Daphne. Silvery-pink.

Splendour. Chestnut, flushed red.

Futurity. Pale salmon.

Chastity. Creamy-white.

Brilliance. Scarlet.

Desert Song. Tawny-yellow, Valerie. Terra-cotta.

Thor. Rose-pink.

Wendy. Amaranth.

Winsome. Crimson.

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