Tins is the most simple oi all the weaving methods. It is done with a single piece of cane, and is passed under one stake and over the next for the entire length of a row. For the next row the cane is passed over the stake which was missed in the first row, and so on until a pretty pattern, though a simple one, is formed when a continuous number of rows of randing is done .
When weaving, it is best to hold the cane in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, and about 3 inches from the basket, or whatever is being woven. The cane should be guided behind the stakes with the fingers of the left hand, and the rows of cane kept pressed down against the base. The rapping iron is not always necessary if the- cane is pressed down with the fingers as the weaving proceeds. The worker will soon appreciate the value of the raised board when doing this part of the work.
When a length of cane is found to be insufficient to finish a piece of weaving, take a fresh piece of damped cane and place the end of the new piece where the other cane would have been inserted, or where it would have come out. In doing this the order of the weave will be maintained.
Slewing. Always choose the finest No. 0 cane for slewing, otherwise the strands will prove too thick and clumsy and difficult to keep in line, and perhaps too much of a strain for the stakes. When joining a number of pieces of cane, the same rule applies as when using a single cane, but care must always be taken to see that there are lengths cut off all to match sufficient to complete a row of this type of weaving.
When pairing, two pieces of cane are used, and the weaving is done by passing in front of one and behind the next stake, using each piece of cane alternately. It is seldom used for weaving straight sides. Remember that two pieces of cane for this work must always be of the same thickness.
This is a triple twist for which three pieces of cane are required. It is usual to commence the sides of a basket with upsetting, next to the base. To do this work, insert each end of the three canes to the left of three consecutive stakes, pass the one nearest to the left in front of two stakes and behind the next stake, and the next cano in front of the third and fourth stakes, and behind the fifth and the third cane in front of the fourth and fifth and behind the sixth.
Some workers adopt the following method. A long length of cane is taken and doubled in half and the loop passed over one stake. This merely reduces the number of loose ends, for the third cano must be started as suggested above.
Two canes looped over the first and the third stakes form the commencement of what is known as a four-rod upset, but in this case each piece of cane passes in front of three stakes and behind one .
When commencing the weaving, of course the length of cano is simply carried on; it is not cut off and started as for the first row of upsetting.
This is another name for upsetting, as three lengths of cano are used, but when this is done it is drawn a little tighter as waling is do ne before a border, which may be carried out in another kind of cane, or it is done before a top border on a basket. When inserting a new piece of can? For upsetting or waling, bring the end of the cane just woven out in front of the work and insert the end of the new cane inside, alongside the end just finished with. When the work is completed this odd end can be cut off flush with the edge of the basket with the shears or the knife.
To dispose of the ends in the top row, turn them under one or two rows of cane, and under the stake close enough to hide the end. Fasten off the next in a different place, if the cane reaches easily. This may mean cutting the cane, but it is better than having more than one end inserted in any place.
Irregular lines in weaving are not so likely to be noticed as irregularly spaced stakes. The worker must therefore concentrate on keeping the stakes upright, spaced evenly, and keeping the weaving well pressed down. Defective shaping cannot be remedied without unpicking many rows of weaving.
Never use varnish. If the white cano must be stained it can be singed by being held over a spirit lamp, or it can be tinted with a brush dipped in a solution of permanganate of potash, or a cold-water dye can be used.